Common Washer and Dryer Problems We Fix

Washer is not draining water

If your cycle ends and the clothes are soaking wet, or if there is standing water in the drum, you likely have a drainage issue. This prevents the machine from spinning and can lead to odors. In older Boston plumbing systems, drain lines can sometimes be slow, but the issue is usually within the machine itself.

• Clogged drain pump filter (coin trap)
• Failed drain pump motor
• Obstruction in the drain hose
• Broken lid switch or door lock preventing the cycle
• Worn drive belt
• Control board not sending power to the pump

How we diagnose it
We listen to the pump to see if it is humming or silent. We manually drain the water and inspect the filter for coins, socks, or lint. We test the resistance of the pump motor. We also check the lid switch on top loaders, as the machine will not drain if it thinks the lid is open.

What you can do right now
Check the drain hose behind the machine to ensure it is not kinked or crushed. If you have a front loader with a front access filter door, open it carefully (have a towel ready) and check for debris.

Dryer is running but not heating

A dryer that tumbles without heat is useless. You might find yourself running the same load two or three times. This wastes energy and wears out your clothes. This problem can occur in both gas and electric models but for different reasons.

• Burnt out heating element (electric)
• Failed igniter or gas valve coils (gas)
• Blown thermal fuse
• Tripped circuit breaker
• Broken timer or heat selector switch
• Clogged vent causing the thermal cutoff to trip

How we diagnose it
On electric dryers, we test the element for continuity. On gas dryers, we observe the ignition sequence to see if the glow bar heats up. We check the thermal fuse, which is a safety device that blows when the dryer gets too hot, often due to poor venting.

What you can do right now
Check your breaker panel. Electric dryers have two breakers; if one trips, the motor might run but the heater will not. Clean your lint trap thoroughly. Check the external vent hood outside to make sure it is not blocked by lint or birds.

Washer is shaking or walking

Loud banging and a machine that moves across the floor can damage your flooring and the appliance. This is often caused by an unbalanced load, but persistent shaking indicates a mechanical failure or leveling issue. In upper floor laundry rooms in Back Bay, this vibration can be felt throughout the house.

• Machine is not level on the floor
• Suspension rods or springs are worn out
• Shock absorbers failed (front load)
• Counterweight is loose or broken
• Shipping bolts were not removed (new installs)
• Drum bearing failure

How we diagnose it
We push down on the tub to test the suspension response. We check the leveling legs to ensure all four are firmly on the floor. We spin the drum by hand to feel for roughness in the bearing. We also inspect the shock absorbers for leaked fluid.

What you can do right now
Ensure the machine is level using a bubble level. Check if the load is bunched up; trying to wash a single heavy blanket can cause unbalance. Adjust the feet at the bottom of the washer until it is stable.

Dryer is making loud squeaking noises

A dryer should produce a steady hum. High pitched squealing or rhythmic thumping suggests that the parts supporting the heavy drum are wearing out. Ignoring this can lead to the drum grinding against metal components.

• Worn drum support rollers
• Idler pulley wheel failure
• Rear drum bearing or sleeve worn out
• Worn drive belt fraying
• Loose blower wheel
• Debris stuck in the blower housing

How we diagnose it
We disassemble the dryer cabinet to inspect the rollers and axles. We spin the idler pulley to check for smooth operation. We examine the belt for signs of shredding. We also check the felt seals to ensure they are not allowing buttons or coins to get trapped.

What you can do right now
Stop using the dryer to prevent further damage. Check inside the drum for any loose objects like coins or keys that might be rattling. Spin the drum by hand; if it is very hard to turn, the bearing may be seized.

Washer is leaking water

Water pooling around your washer is a major risk, especially in condos or second floor laundry rooms where it can damage the ceiling below. Leaks can come from hoses, pumps, or the tub itself.

• Cracked or loose fill hoses
• Worn door boot seal (front load)
• Leaking drain pump
• Tub seal failure
• Detergent dispenser hose disconnected
• Overfilling due to pressure switch failure

How we diagnose it
We run a cycle and observe the machine with the panels removed to pinpoint the source. We check the fill hoses at the back. We inspect the rubber door boot for small tears or items stuck in the fold. We also look for rust stains which indicate a slow, long term leak.

What you can do right now
Turn off the water supply valves behind the washer immediately. Wipe up the water. Inspect the rubber gasket on the door for any visible rips or trapped debris preventing a seal.

Dryer takes too long to dry

If your clothes are hot but damp after a full cycle, the issue is usually airflow. The moist air must escape for the clothes to dry. In Boston brownstones with long vent runs, this is a very common problem that can also be a fire hazard.

• Clogged dryer vent duct
• Crushed flexible vent hose
• Blower wheel stripped or clogged
• Moisture sensor failure
• Cycling thermostat failing
• Lint screen completely blocked

How we diagnose it
We measure the airflow exiting the dryer. We check the temperature at the exhaust. We inspect the internal blower housing for lint buildup. We also test the moisture sensor bars to ensure they are detecting dampness correctly.

What you can do right now
Clean the lint screen. Go outside and check the vent cap; if you cannot feel a strong breeze coming out while the dryer is running, your duct is likely clogged. Avoid using flexible foil or plastic venting; rigid metal is safer.

Washer will not start or spin

You press start and nothing happens, or the machine fills but sits silent. This disrupts your schedule and leaves wet clothes sitting in the drum. It can be a simple safety switch or a complex electronic failure.

• Lid switch or door lock assembly broken
• Broken drive belt
• Motor coupling broken (direct drive)
• Main control board failure
• Timer contact failure
• Thermal overload on the motor

How we diagnose it
We test the door lock mechanism first, as it is the most common cause. We check the belt condition. If the motor hums but does not turn, we check the capacitor. We also verify voltage at the motor connector.

What you can do right now
Ensure the door or lid is closed firmly. Check the breaker. If you have a top loader, try lifting and closing the lid again to reset the switch. Make sure the “Delay Start” feature is not activated.

Washer smells like mildew

A foul odor coming from your washer transfers to your clean clothes. This is particularly common in front load washers where water can sit in the door seal or outer tub. It indicates mold or bacteria growth.

• Mold buildup in the door boot gasket
• Clogged drain pump filter holding stagnant water
• Using too much detergent (excess suds)
• Washing only with cold water
• Drain hose installed incorrectly (backflow)

How we diagnose it
We inspect the door seal folds for black mold. We check the drain filter for sludge. We examine the installation of the drain hose to ensure it has a proper high loop or standpipe height to prevent sewer gas or sink water from backing up.

What you can do right now
Run a “Clean Washer” cycle with hot water and a cup of bleach or a specialized washer cleaner tablet. Wipe down the door seal and leave the door open when not in use to let the drum dry out.